4/30/2023 0 Comments Yves st laurent russian collection![]() ![]() The looks in the collection were extremely incongruous: There were turbans, rhinestone combs, high-waisted trousers, and crêpe de soie fabrics with Greco-Roman scenes, like Heracles surrounded by warriors or a banquet attributed to the painter Brygos. “It was the first time the word kitsch was published in relation to fashion,” says Olivier Saillard, the curator of the exhibition and director of Paris’s Palais Galliera fashion museum. With garish colors, sequined swirls, and dresses adorned with clownish fake flowers, the collection was a sharp departure from traditional French style. The war was still a fresh trauma - many people present at the show had lived through it, though not Saint Laurent himself, who grew up in Algeria - and here was a foreign-born designer unnervingly turning wartime into a fashion statement. He said he was inspired by the 1940s, with retro references like oversize pointy lapels and polka-dotted dresses - which critics felt was in particularly poor taste. ![]() Through the collection, Saint Laurent shifted from his past: He sought to distance himself from the androgynous style he’d been credited with in the previous decade. It set the tone for a new kind of dress code, one characterized by comfort and modernity - not to mention a soupçon of shock value. ![]() Of course, the barometer has shifted as to what shocks in fashion - looking at the collection ’s knee-length skirts, cropped fur jackets, and boxy suits with wide pleated pants today, it’s easy to think, Where’s the fire? Yet, at the time, the show’s aesthetic broke away from the pristine elegance of couture and charged headlong into the streets - into the dawning world of prêt-à-porter. But at the time, it was regarded as tactless, impudent, and uncouth. Now, it’s the focus of an exhibition at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, running through July 19.įrom our seen-it-all point of view today, the designer’s spring 1971 show seems startlingly innocuous. Throughout his four decades in fashion, Yves Saint Laurent’s Libération collection, unveiled on January 29, 1971, is widely seen as one of the designer’s most pivotal - and controversial - moments. ![]()
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